Shakuhachi buyers guide – how to buy shakuhachi

Shakuhachi diagram: A - utaguchi 歌口 'song mouth' or blowing edge and chin rest area. Finger-holes: 一 ichi 1, 二 ni 2, 三 san 3, 四 shi/yon 4, 五 go 5th thumb hole on back. B - the first node. C - root end and bottom opening which voices Ro ロ or the fundamental/tonic/key, i.e., the lowest/deepest note of the shakuhachi.
Shakuhachi diagram: A – utaguchi 歌口 ‘song mouth’ or blowing edge and chin rest area. Finger-holes: 一 ichi 1, 二 ni 2, 三 san 3, 四 shi/yon 4, 五 go 5th thumb hole on back. B – the first node. C – root end and bottom opening which voices Ro ロ or the fundamental/tonic/key, i.e., the lowest/deepest note of the shakuhachi.

(Of course, because I’m a craftsperson selling shakuhachi I won’t be recommending any of my own works here, or those of anyone else.)

TLDR: 1.8 D is the best to start with alongside any other shakuhachi lengths/keys you’re drawn to and can afford. There are affordable, professionally approved and professional level wooden and resin shakuhachi as well as entry level bamboo shakuhachi all from around 200 to 500 dollars. You can ask around public shakuhachi groups to learn about your options for these. It’s of course possible to spend  thousands of dollars on a shakuhachi which actually turns out to not be suited to you, your skill level, ambitions or intentions, and so on. So even if you have thousands of dollars to spend it’s still best to begin on something at a more humble price.

Introduction to purchasing a shakuhachi

Purchasing your first shakuhachi can be a daunting task. In this guide I hope to help you learn how to buy shakuhachi and avoid disappointment. For example, you don’t want to over-buy; purchasing a shakuhachi way above your requirements. Similarly, you don’t want to buy a pseudo-shakuhachi which can’t function properly, resulting in you having to turn around and purchase a real shakuhachi. My goal here is to get you off to a good start with shakuhachi because I don’t want you to give up out of frustration or disappointment.

To 1.8 or not, that is the question

As you probably know, 1.8 key of D is the standard shakuhachi length or key. This means that most instructional materials will be aimed at 1.8 and most teachers instruct on 1.8. If you have small hands or physical limitations, 1.8 might also be the largest shakuhachi you can hope to play. For these reasons, 1.8 D is the best choice for most people’s first shakuhachi purchase.

While those with small hands might assume that it’s better to opt for something shorter than 1.8, in actuality smaller shakuhachi are harder to play as they take more focus from the embouchure to hit the higher notes of Kan the 2nd register. The fact is, there are very few adults who can’t manage to play a standard 1.8 when using proper form.

PVC and other cylindrical bore flutes vs. traditional tapered bore shakuhachi

I’ve written at length on this topic in my guide, Traditional tapered shakuhachi bores vs. cylindrical bore flutes, such as pvc and wood. To summarize or give a TLDR; traditional shakuhachi have tapering bores, i.e., not cylindrical like PVC, and this is essential. This is not snobbery, marketing, or archaic stuffy traditionalism either. Rather, it’s a scientific fact of acoustics. All that being said, if you have to get your start on PVC or other cylindrical bore shakuhachi it’s far, far better than nothing and I would not begrudge it.

Are shakuhachi overpriced?

Everything is of course relative so let’s make some comparisons between shakuhachi and concert silver flutes. You can acquire beginner level concert flutes for around 500 dollars while you can get professional level resin or wooden shakuhachi then same prices. When it comes to professional level bamboo shakuhachi the prices rarely exceed 3000 to 5000 dollars. By contrast, just high end headjoints alone for silver flutes can regularly exceed 5000 dollars (search for Miyazawa, Rodger Young, or Mancke headjoints).

While these headjoints are crafted from precious metals, consider the sheer amount of effort that goes into acquiring and drying quality Madaké bamboo for shakuhachi. Of course, headjoints can require a great amount of effort and precision to craft but I think it’s safe to say that crafting an entire quality shakuhachi from bamboo is more difficult compared to any concert flute headjoint.

In this light, quality bamboo shakuhachi are clearly undervalued. Why is that? Unlike concert flutes, very few people make any sort of income playing shakuhachi. This means that few people can justify their purchase of shakuhachi as a business expense with the hopes of earning returns via performances. This combined with the far fewer players of shakuhachi (lower demand) has and will keep the price of quality bamboo shakuhachi, and now even metal shakuhachi, far lower than their true worth.

All that glitters is not bamboo

Some musicians and makers of instruments love opulence. In fact, the shakuhachi world has its fair share of the bourgeoisie with 50k antiques, ivory blowing edge inlays lined with gold, and so on. Do these things affect the sound? No. With that said, either the sound of the shakuhachi is worthy of these additions, or not. Either way, you’ll be paying a premium for them.

Check that return policy

Of course, it’s always a good idea to check and see if there’s a return policy or auditioning period before buying a shakuhachi. However, when it comes to shakuhachi auctions you’ll hardly ever get any sort of option for returns. Sellers should also accept returns without hassling you over it. If a seller gives you a possible solution to a problem you’re having with a shakuhachi you purchased from them, such as “getting used to” X, Y or Z issues, make sure they tell you in writing that they’ll extend your auditioning period while you try their advice or seek out a teacher to help you.

Lastly, just because one or even many people love a shakuhachi or a particular maker it’s no guarantee that you will as well. Furthermore, it’ll take time for you to judge shakuhachi for yourself and to develop tastes and needs. This underscores my advice to start with more humbly priced shakuhachi.

Keep cracks in mind

Bamboo shakuhachi can and often do crack, especially when shipped by inexperienced people who don’t know that they should be packaged in an air-tight bag. The harsh conditions of shipping put the bamboo or wood through a lot of stress if it’s not packaged properly.

Cracks can be especially devastating and difficult to repair with Jiari or Jinuri shakuhachi with their plastered bores and center joints. For example, let’s say you acquire a cracked Jiari for 500 dollars on auction or it cracks in shipment; the repairs alone could cost you more than the instrument, doubling your costs.

Lastly, all bamboo can crack no matter how thick, thin, old, pretty, or expensive (bindings are the only way to truly prevent cracks which is why I offer them for free on all my root ends). Accept that bamboo shakuhachi will crack, should crack, are naturally meant to crack. They may not crack within our lifetime, or for many lifetimes, but they will split eventually…

Antiques are usually a bad idea for one’s first shakuhachi

Antiques are usually bad, period. Good or great antiques curated by the experienced will usually still posses quirks which make them unideal for beginners. They’ll also have high prices.

Caveat emptor: that’s not an antique “Komuso monk” shakuhachi

Unfortunately, some people market or erroneously think that some antiques are rustic, wabi sabi shakuhachi crafted by humble Komuso. In truth, most of these that I’ve seen are actually throw-away apprentice works. Essentially, in Japan shakuhachi crafting apprentices are given throw-away pieces of unsuitable bamboo to practice their skills upon. After the apprentice is done these are then donated to local Japanese pawn shops which no serious shakuhachi player in their right mind would purchase from. Instead, these are intended to be bought as Ikebana flower vases and the like, i.e., as decorations. However, they have been known to come into the hands of probably well-meaning non-Japanese people and are then sold as rustic “Komuso” shakuhachi. It takes a moderately skilled eye to spot these, however, take my advice and avoid antiques altogether, at least at first. If a shakuhachi looks roughly or crudely crafted chances are the sound is rough too and not well suited to a beginner, but rather the intrepid and experienced collector.

In summation

Acquire one of the aforementioned humbly priced professional level resin or wood 1.8 D’s or entry level bamboo vetted by experienced players and/or professionals (you can inquire on social media for your options for resin, wood, and entry level bamboo). Next, acquire any additional shakuhachi lengths you may desire, ideally also beginning with relatively inexpensive options. Over time, the path through the bamboo to the shakuhachi of your dreams will become clear. In the end, you’ll have earned it more so with your dedication than with your bank account. Ganbatte kudasai or ‘please do you best’, Josen